You cannot just happen by Vareš on your way to somewhere else. You can only come with a reason and on purpose. Tucked between the hills and mountains of central Bosnia, since ancient times it has been a place discovered by miners and craftsmen who created with their skilled hands a town that winds like a snake along the Stavnja stream. Some six kilometres before you reach Vareš, at Vareš Majdan, among the skeletons of factory halls, there is a turn for Stupni Do. The road spirals up to the village and, expecting to reach a plateau, you are surprised when you’re told that you have arrived. It is unusual to be in a valley with everything either uphill or downhill. The HVO units from Kiseljak, Maturica and Apostoli did not just happen by this Bosniak village twenty-five years ago, they came with a purpose, together with the local HVO units. On the morning of 25 October, they killed 38 of the 250 villagers, 32 civilians and 6 soldiers of the Army of RBiH. Among their victims were women, children and the elderly, and they razed and destroyed whatever they could. The villagers unable to flee to the woods were taken to a camp.
We were invited by the Stupni Do Local Organisation Committee to the commemoration of 25 years since the massacre of people from Stupni Do and Vareš. Three of us from CNA came, together with veterans of HVO, the Army of RBiH, VRS, HV, VJ, thirty-three of us in all. We came from Zagreb, Daruvar, Bihać, Žešče, Novi Grad/Bosanski Novi, Šamac, Zavidovići, Sarajevo, Derventa, Kruševac, Mostar, Belgrade, Jajce, Brčko, Goražde and Živinice.
Joint commemoration
We also came to Stupni Do with purpose, to pay our respects together to the victims of this horrific war crime, to express to the families of the victims, their neighbours and friends, how sorry we were and how ashamed of crimes committed by anyone in anyone’s name, because they are an insult to human kind. We met with Emir Likić, head of the Organising Committee, on the eve of the commemoration. He conveyed to us warm words of gratitude on behalf of all the villagers of Stupni Do, because, as he said, for him personally and for all the others, our coming was particularly important and everyone who understood their pain and loss and wanted to pay their respects to the victims was welcome, pointing out that we “former enemies”, now united in promoting peace and reconciliation, were the role model to be followed.
The commemoration was held in front of the local mosque in whose yard is a memorial fountain with the names of the victims. The more than one thousand attendees were addressed by the highest Bosniak political officials from the state, federal and cantonal level. Mayor Zdravko Marošević spoke on behalf of the Vareš Municipality. It is interesting that Marošević, a candidate of the Croat Democratic Community (HDZ) was elected mayor, having also won the support of Bosniaks who make up the majority in Vareš these days. In his speech he said, “Respected people of Stupni Do, we acknowledge the guests who have come to express the minimum of what is human and innate to all people, and that is to bow our heads, to pay our respects and to take a moment to honour the innocents that perished here in Stupni Do. My message is clear to you, I have conveyed it long ago, that those who do not have the dignity and the humility to bow their heads have no place among the human race, those who committed these crimes do not belong to humanity.” I would add here that this should serve as an example for other mayors and politicians.
Crimes and cries
Our group was addressed by representatives of the organisers, thanking us for coming and listing each of the military formations we were once part of. It is very important for people to see us as members of armies that committed crimes. Even though we did not personally commit any crimes, the very fact that we wore the same insignia as those who did is further motivation to rise above, to face the crimes and clearly say we see them as our own shame, as a stain on something we thought would be a source of pride. I know what it was like for my friends from HVO, as it was for me in Trusina and Grabovica where members of the Army of RBiH committed crimes against Croats. You feel bad for something you did not do, you feel shame.
The recital at the commemoration left a particularly deep mark on us. Marko, a war veteran from Daruvar, later wrote:
“Actress Elma Fetić from Vareš recited the testimony of a girl who was 12 years old at the time and conveyed to all of us the horrors that took place; we waved our heads, I left humbled, ashamed, those who did this were not acting in the name of any religion or any people, certainly not in the name of my religion or people. It is not for me to judge, but if we are to face God at the end of our earthly journeys, as merciful as He may be, I am sure these people will go with heads bowed, actually, are they really people?”
It was difficult to hear, cries echoed among the hills, women around us were crying and I thought about whether they had been witnesses. I remembered the cries I had heard during the war and I knew I would not get much sleep that night. I was worried for the others, too. In truth, I also wondered whether these recitals, commonly performed at commemorations, were quite appropriate, given that they keep re-traumatising the victims who survived the crime and the families of those that perished.
The path of forgiveness and reconciliation
At the meeting after the commemoration, our group was joined by Mayor Marošević, the head imam of the Vareš Islamic Community Majlis Ramiz ef. Zubača and the Veterans Officer of the Vareš Municipality, Mustafa Kamenjaš. The Mayor welcomed us, saying his door was always open and that he would support all our activities in the Vareš Municipality. He said the citizens of Vareš had overcome their divisions long ago and that it was appropriate for delegations to attend each other’s commemorations, that this was something that could serve as an example to others. Effendi Zubača said we were doing what was expected of the faithful. Doing good deeds and inviting other people to do good distances us from hatred and evil. We should all be active on the path of forgiveness and reconciliation, and we have seen how much this country needs it. Mustafa said he was at our disposal for anything the Vareš Municipality could do to help, and that as a disabled war veteran, he was personally prepared to join us and participate in our activities wherever they may take place. It could hardly have been better, our hearts swelled.
It is important that the local community saw us as providing support to their efforts to re-establish normal relations disrupted by war. We had an opportunity to talk about the wartime suffering of Bosniaks and Croats in this region and the ways to revive this town and halt the trend of young people leaving. The Mayor is optimistic, saying people will once again come to Vareš to make a living.
The media were particularly interested in our attending the commemoration. On the day of the commemoration, we were hosted by N1 television and many reporters came to take our statements in Stupni Do. It is encouraging to hear words of support from them, which is a clear sign to us that there is a need in society for activities that are different and that the media are eager to see a change and promote positive examples of cooperation and solidarity. After the commemoration, we were also contacted by people, war veterans, who wanted to join us. They wrote to us, called on the phone. We’re on the right path.
The photo gallery from the commemoration in Stupni Do may be viewed HERE.
Some of the media reports are available at the following links:
https://www.bljesak.info/vijesti/flash/ratni-veterani-na-komemoraciji-u-stupnom-dolu/250971
https://rtvtk.ba/ratni-veterani-na-komemoraciji-u-stupnom-dolu/
http://fena.ba/article/1048464/ratni-veterani-na-komemoraciji-u-stupnom-dolu
https://www.faktor.ba/vijest/ratni-veterani-iz-bih-i-regiona-na-komemoraciji-u-stupnom-dolu/8425
https://amp.index.hr/article/2032362/obiljezava-se-25-godina-od-masakra-hvoa-nad-bosnjacima